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e a s t c o u n t y l e a d e r
october 2013
6
When a hankering for comfort food
sets in, Chinese food isn’t always the rst
thing to come to mind.
Still, there are just some times when
a steaming bowl of rice, Sweet and Sour
Chicken and Fried Shrimp are, well, com-
forting.
“ is is American-style Chinese
food,” said Martin Tang, owner of Taste
of Village in downtown Troutdale. “It’s
simple. I cook the popular dishes that
people know.”
Nestled in a historic building on the
Columbia River Highway, Taste of Village
o ers the traditional favorites of Chinese
cuisine in a homey setting. It’s a family
operation, with Tang, his wife and two
daughters serving customers and run-
ning the kitchen, with a simple décor and
concise menu.
For more than 11 years, Taste of Vil-
lage has been “the” place among locals for
a good meal at a reasonable price.
Born and raised in Hong Kong, Tang
learned his trade as an apprentice in local
restaurants. He mastered each position,
“step-by-step,” until immigrating to the
United States and opening his own place
in Troutdale.
But along the way, Tang paid atten-
tion to what customers liked and didn’t
like on their plates. He noticed which
foods they “pushed to the side” and de-
signed his menu to include dishes patrons
liked served together. He also recognized
that sometimes an entrée’s description on
the menu doesn’t always draw a visual for
a customer, especially if they are looking
to try a new dish.
“We put in a TV screen that has
pictures of the dishes,” Tang said. “Even
though the menu has explanations, the
pictures help because the customer can
see what they order.”
Taste of Village serves up a mixture of
Cantonese and Mandarin cuisine, blend-
ing the specialties and cooking methods
from both the northern and southern re-
gions of China. Tang’s kitchen sta uses
locally grown fresh ingredients, an im-
portant element among Cantonese cooks,
along with a combination of stir-frying,
steaming and grilling.
Pleasing the customer’s palette with
fresh tasting food is a priority, Tang said,
which is why every dish is made-to-order.
“A er an hour of sitting on the line,
the taste isn’t as good and the noodles
aren’t crunchy,” he explained. “ at’s why
I tell my kitchen to taste what they make
for the customer. If they won’t eat it, then
they shouldn’t give it to the customer.”
Tang also aims to feed the communi-
ty outside his kitchen. He is an avid sup-
porter of local little league teams and area
Boy Scout troops. He regularly donates
gi certi cates to a number of school
fundraisers and is an active participant in
Troutdale’s First Friday Art Walk.
“Business is supposed to help the
community,” Tang said. “I like to help.
When I give gi certi cates, it’s a win-
win. New customers come into the res-
taurant and the schools raise money.”
A southeast Portland resident, Tang
calls his recipes for Egg Flower Soup and
Ham Fried Rice as easy dishes to whip
up at home, since ingredients are read-
ily available at local grocery stores. But,
Tang added, they’re also a great way to
create a di erent meal with le overs or
items already in the pantry.
Tang laughs at the notion that he
practices what he preaches, however.
Taste of Village’s owner admits he rarely
prepares a big meal at home.
“I spend so much time in the restau-
rant,” he said. “I like to go out to eat.”
FOOD
Troutdale restaurant offers favorites in Cantonese and Mandarin cuisine
Fresh to the table, with love from Hong Kong
S t o r y b y A n n e E n d i c o t t
Martin Tang adheres to the Cantonese practice of using fresh ingredients for made-to-order meals. PAMPLIN MEDIA: JIM CLARK
"This is American-style Chinese
food. It's simple. I cook the
popular dishes that people know."
MARTIN TANG
Owner of Taste of Village
